jeca 07/07/21 00:56
Armani Code Eau de Parfum: Back to the Beginning
The first Armani Code, soon followed by multiple flankers, appeared on the market 15 years ago, and the Armani Code line remains popular to this day. Besides their modern olfactory profiles, well-chosen faces for the advertising campaigns contributed to Armani Code's great success.
In 2004, at the time of amber fougeres, Armani Code Eau de Toilette was launched and instantly became one of the best among them. For me, Armani Code was my college perfume, many of us wore it, including myself. I remember how cozy and at the same time exciting it seemed.
Since then, the original has gained many flankers. There have been fresh versions of Armani Code, as well as warm ones, every time sweeter than before. However, none of them can be compared to the beauty and impeccable balance of the original.
Perfumer Antoine Lie managed to sense an ideal ratio between the classic fougere construction with the dominance of coumarin, and the sweet oriental repletion of woody-gourmand notes of guaiac and tobacco. Everything in the original Armani Code was in moderation.
Over time, the original itself has changed to become sweeter, not to mention its sweet flankers like amber-woody Armani Code Absolu, which is undoubtedly commercially successful but, in my opinion, lacks the refinement and harmony of the first one. Perhaps, the reason they were different is that they were created by different perfumers. Antoine Lee's professional path took him from the giants Givaudan and Takasago to a small artisanal perfume company located in Grasse. But this is a story for another time.
In 2021, Giorgio Armani introduced an updated version of the original Armani Code, in the Eau de Parfum concentration, and, unexpectedly for me, it turned out to be exceedingly beautiful.
Top notes: lavender, lemon, bergamot
Middle notes: tonka beans
Base notes: vanilla, suede, cedar and musk
The new Armani Code Eau de Parfum is an elegant fougere that reminds me very much of the time of the original, and even of an earlier time. The warm iron of coumarin is cooled off by lavender oil, diffusive ambroxan replaces tobacco.
By some miracle, the new Armani Code comfortably included three perfume decades at once: the modern ambroxan time, the genetic code of the original from the beginning of the new millennium, and, stylistically, the 80s! Yes, people who feel nostalgic for the time of the great Drakkar Noir, will find its dark shadow in Armani Code Eau de Parfum.
It is not only the structure of the fragrance that is impressive but also the dynamics of its development: Antoine Maisondieu of Givaudan managed to create a very calm, unobtrusive, and yet not boring fragrance. Ambroxan doesn't violate your receptors, but softly illuminates the lavender and Code's signature coumarin accord. As for sweetness, it is so very well-measured that I can recommend the new fragrance even to those who have been avoiding the line specifically because of the sweetness of its previous editions.
Coming back to the beginning, Armani has surpassed itself and created a new classic, a beautifully balanced fragrance that many of us have yet to appreciate.
Igor Masyukov Editor, writer
Igor is an interpreter and journalist, a longtime reader and an active user of the Russian Fragrantica. While studying management and theory of translation at the Moscow State Linguistic University, he got interested in perfumery and began to study Russian and foreign perfumery authors. Now he writes for Fragrantica.
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