Armani Code Eau de Parfum: Back to the Beginning
Fragrance Reviews

by Igor Masyukov
07/03/21 15:46:01 ( 7 comments )

Armani Code Eau de Parfum: к истокам

 

The first Armani Code, soon followed by multiple flankers, appeared on the market 15 years ago, and the Armani Code line remains popular to this day. Besides their modern olfactory profiles, well-chosen faces for the advertising campaigns contributed to Armani Code's great success.

In 2004, at the time of amber fougeres, Armani Code Eau de Toilette was launched and instantly became one of the best among them. For me, Armani Code was my college perfume, many of us wore it, including myself. I remember how cozy and at the same time exciting it seemed. 

Since then, the original has gained many flankers. There have been fresh versions of Armani Code, as well as warm ones, every time sweeter than before. However, none of them can be compared to the beauty and impeccable balance of the original.

Armani Code Eau de Parfum: к истокам

Perfumer Antoine Lie managed to sense an ideal ratio between the classic fougere construction with the dominance of coumarin, and the sweet oriental repletion of woody-gourmand notes of guaiac and tobacco. Everything in the original Armani Code was in moderation.

Over time, the original itself has changed to become sweeter, not to mention its sweet flankers like amber-woody Armani Code Absolu, which is undoubtedly commercially successful but, in my opinion, lacks the refinement and harmony of the first one. Perhaps, the reason they were different is that they were created by different perfumers. Antoine Lee's professional path took him from the giants Givaudan and Takasago to a small artisanal perfume company located in Grasse. But this is a story for another time. 

Armani Code Eau de Parfum: к истокам

In 2021, Giorgio Armani introduced an updated version of the original Armani Code, in the Eau de Parfum concentration, and, unexpectedly for me, it turned out to be exceedingly beautiful.
 

Armani Code Eau de Parfum: к истокам

Armani Code Eau de Parfum

2021

Top notes: lavender, lemon, bergamot
Middle notes: tonka beans
Base notes: vanilla, suede, cedar and musk

 

The new Armani Code Eau de Parfum is an elegant fougere that reminds me very much of the time of the original, and even of an earlier time. The warm iron of coumarin is cooled off by lavender oil, diffusive ambroxan replaces tobacco.

By some miracle, the new Armani Code comfortably included three perfume decades at once: the modern ambroxan time, the genetic code of the original from the beginning of the new millennium, and, stylistically, the 80s! Yes, people who feel nostalgic for the time of the great Drakkar Noir, will find its dark shadow in Armani Code Eau de Parfum.

It is not only the structure of the fragrance that is impressive but also the dynamics of its development: Antoine Maisondieu of Givaudan managed to create a very calm, unobtrusive, and yet not boring fragrance. Ambroxan doesn't violate your receptors, but softly illuminates the lavender and Code's signature coumarin accord. As for sweetness, it is so very well-measured that I can recommend the new fragrance even to those who have been avoiding the line specifically because of the sweetness of its previous editions. 

Coming back to the beginning, Armani has surpassed itself and created a new classic, a beautifully balanced fragrance that many of us have yet to appreciate.

Armani Code Eau de Parfum: к истокам

 

Author

Igor Masyukov

Igor Masyukov Editor, writer

Igor is an interpreter and journalist, a longtime reader and an active user of the Russian Fragrantica. While studying management and theory of translation at the Moscow State Linguistic University, he got interested in perfumery and began to study Russian and foreign perfumery authors. Now he writes for Fragrantica.

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News Comments

Write your comment
jeca
Rose Alexandrie

jeca 07/07/21 00:56

Agree about tonka bean! too much of it in perfumes – no facets, only sweet fluff, like all we need in perfumes is a shapeless cocoon. But I am still waiting for this one to arrive :-) have high hopes
putraothman
Oud Satin Mood

putraothman 07/06/21 22:22

i hope Attitude line will make a return in near future 🙏🏽
ilsagold

ilsagold 07/05/21 01:55

Tonka bean here, tonka bean there, tonka bean everywhere. As with everything, there is WAY too much of the same out there. Imagination? Nowhere!
vanillaOrpatchouli

vanillaOrpatchouli 07/04/21 14:44

I bet they had this concept before absolu, but some genius decided: "you know what, let's create a strong synthetic mess, and then give them this so they can appreciate it more"
Endymion
Amor Pour Homme Tentation

Endymion 07/04/21 03:38

I know, I know, I'm in the minority but I couldn't find (Black) Code that amazing as everyone. Neither did Mania effect on me. However, I liked Attitude the most out of those pillar fragrances. So, of course, Attitude got discontinued some years later while Code still sells very well. So typical for me. :(
zoka
Light Blue Forever pour Homme

zoka 07/04/21 01:00

Now only to resurrect Armani Mania and everything will be good.
TaxMania
Bleu de Chanel Eau de Parfum

TaxMania 07/03/21 20:30

No argument from me. This one is a rebuy.

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