Dior Tobacolor: Finally!
Fragrance Reviews

Dior Tobacolor: дождались
 

Baccarat is a French luxury brand, a well-known maker of high-end, exclusive crystal products. The bottles in the picture above were made for Dior by Baccarat.

Ironically, in the modern perfume world, the name of the famous crystal empire, Baccarat, is more known for the eponymous perfume rather than for its own refined products. Baccarat has become more than a perfume and is now a popular olfactive profile based on an overdose of evernyl and ethyl maltol – a mixture that is not only super long-lasting but also enormously diffusive.

It was only a question of time, when Dior would join the others in making its own version of Baccarat. After all, Dior is not as scrupulous as Chanel that hasn't yet produced a single oud perfume. The main perfumer of Dior, François Demachy is very responsive to trends and does not hold on to the brand's glorious past, otherwise, he would have reissued Edmond Roudnitska's masterpieces, like Diorella, a long time ago. How wonderful it would be to relaunch it as extrait de parfum, not as its modern pale shadow – if you've smelled the perfume from Les Creations de Monsieur Dior, you understand my frustration.

 

Dior Tobacolor: дождались

Perfume Francois Demachy
 

Dior's reaction to Baccarat was very much expected. At first, people suspected Rouge Trafalgar to be Dior's Baccarat, mostly because of its name (in a manner of Baccarat Rouge).

This reminds me of Hitchcock's famous idea of suspense: the director plunges the viewer into an atmosphere of tense expectation, and you wait until the end constantly on your toes, horrified and wary of every innocent thing. The same happened to Rouge Trafalgar, which is absolutely nothing like the great and terrible Baccarat. I suggest you read Elena's review of Rouge Trafalgar – All Attention to Red!.

But Dior did not keep us waiting for too long, and finally rolled out its very own version of Baccarat named Tobacolor!

Dior Tobacolor: дождались

In February 2021, Dior introduced Tobacolor, which after Rouge Trafalgar entered the Private collection of Maison Christian Dior. Francois Demachy dedicated it to the fragrance of fresh tobacco. The perfumer reinterpreted the classic warm tobacco accord, adding paradoxical cool elements to it. As he explained, he wanted to re-create an olfactive experience of hookah with ice. The result is a powerful charismatic composition, which has truly adorned the Private collection mostly consisting of lightweight floral fragrances.

 

Dior Tobacolor: дождались

Dior Tobacolor: дождались

 

Tobacolor smells for 24 hours on my skin. On clothes the fragrance smells indefinitely long – I accidentally sprayed the sleeve of my jacket, and it has been smelling ever since for the past two weeks. Tobacolor is strong and diffusive even if not applied on warm skin, it smells from a paper blotter laying on a counter 10 feet away.

Tobacolor is very similar to Baccarat. Its strength and sillage are achieved here with the same means: evernyl and other related substances. Evernil is responsible for that very cool hookah with ice. In Baccarat evernyl is opposed by sugary ethyl maltol, in Tobacolor, evernyl is balanced by the natural absolute of tobacco leaves.

Tobacco absolute, from my experience, is an incredibly complex material: in it you find sweet hookah smoke, dried fruits, honey, spices, and leather. This is the kind of multifaceted, rich tobacco you find in Tobacolor. Evernyl shines through all of its multiple layers.

Dior Tobacolor: дождались

Natural tobacco absolute includes terpenic compounds, pyrazines, and quinoline derivatives, they form the tart leathery aspect of its smell. Beta-damascenone is also very important, it adds a honey-sweet and dried fruit nuance. But Demachy didn't stop there, he added other fruits, fresh ones – peach, prune, and citruses. Needless to say, the tobacco accord based on natural tobacco that is enriched by smart modern materials, smells much more interesting than an overdose of ethyl maltol.

Dior managed to successfully ride the Baccarat wave without risking being accused of copying. Yes, Francois Demachy borrowed the idea of opposing evernyl freshness with something dense and sweet, like ethyl maltol, or better tobacco. He went for tobacco and improved the original idea. Tobacco is simply more appealing and sophisticated than ethyl maltol.

There is no doubt that Tobacolor will become a bestseller. And I will welcome it, because, despite the notorious baccarat trend, this fragrance is very, very good. I note that I recommend this perfume to all lovers of tobacco in perfumery.

 

Author

Igor Masyukov

Igor Masyukov Editor, writer

Igor is an interpreter and journalist, a longtime reader and an active user of the Russian Fragrantica. While studying management and theory of translation at the Moscow State Linguistic University, he got interested in perfumery and began to study Russian and foreign perfumery authors. Now he writes for Fragrantica.

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News Comments

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AMajeedQT
 Eau Parfumée au Thé Noir Intense

AMajeedQT

@RGW

On Chanel & oud. I don't see the term "resistance" fitting. Maybe they are refusing to cash in on the oud craze for reasons, one of which they don't want to cheapen the brand's name by following trends. Yet, the it's craze grace many gorgeous oud fragrances: Oud Essentiel, Oud Wood Intense, Akaster, & more

I understand that you don't like oud, not the most mess appealing note. Yet, cheering a brand for not releasing an oud-centered fragrance because you don't like oud is not the kindest of acts.
KowltheOwl

KowltheOwl

Not sure why releases from big houses get so much vitriol. I have tried this once, quite liked it and believe it would smell as amazing on a man as it did on me. ;) The drydown is where it becomes most reminiscent of BR 540. I will break out my decant again when the weather and some of your tempers cool down.
igor.masyukov
Sycomore Eau de Parfum

igor.masyukov

IvoFrag, do you judge by pyramids, that are marketing instruments and often differ from market to market while the fragrances remain unchanged, or by the experience of wearing Baccarat, Tobacolor, and Tobacco Vanille?
IvoFrag

IvoFrag

I do not see the similarity with Baccarat rouge at least in terms of notes and the overall profile of the scents. They are two distinct fragrances. It's Dior's response to Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille imo
RGW

RGW

The most important point for me in this article, “Chanel hasn't yet produced a single oud perfume.” I wasn't aware of that and applaud Chanel for resisting, personally, I’m not a fan of oud. I look forward to trying Tobacolor, but am tired of sweet fragrances. Time for a change for me.
blurryface24
English Oak & Redcurrant

blurryface24

I love it, take it with an insulin shot though. I get the reference to BR540, no way it’ll be as successful though. But good luck. Love Dior.
Andy the Frenchy
Oh, ooOoh ...oh

Andy the Frenchy

Recently tried it in Paris. Overly sweet. Too spicy-ish for a woman, too sweet for a man. BR540 is for both, this one is for neither. Doesn't know what it wants to be. Clearly a failed mash-up of I don't want to know what. Disgusting, as per my standards. Hard pass!
I'd be surprised if that one stayed more than 2 years on the shelves before (deserved) discontinuation.
AMajeedQT
 Eau Parfumée au Thé Noir Intense

AMajeedQT

Another sweet tobacco, and in BR540's likeness?! Hard pass!
jeca
Rose Alexandrie

jeca

Jovejove, a little bit more complicated than that :-)) If someone appreciates something from the past it is not ignorance, it is a matter of personal preference. Why not?
jovejove
Sage Spell

jovejove

In reference to Diorella;

Whenever someone says that things should revert to how they were in the past, make things in their “former glory”, it makes me think of serfdom. Western Europe abolished serfdom which followed with the industrial revolution, while Russia decided to bring in serfdom... which resulted in poverty, starvation and decline in society, ending with the Romanov rule.

Fashion changes and looks forward. Even when they look at the past, the interpretation is modern, different cut/style/fusion. Just sounds ignorant when people say they should make it like before.
swoon
Insolence Eau de Toilette

swoon

Dior has changed this collection's name back to "La Collection Privée"
jeca
Rose Alexandrie

jeca

Trafalgar Rouge has something of Baccarat :-) I wish I smelled fruits and roses but unfortunately for me it smells like synthetic ambery wood in the base and sweetish something like ethyl maltol. Nicely, not loud.

I like new Tobacolor, and it is indeed similar to Baccarat, but better :-)
igor.masyukov
Sycomore Eau de Parfum

igor.masyukov

PerfumePizza, by what means do you think its sillage and presence are obtained?
PerfumePizza

PerfumePizza

I dont agree. It doesnt have anything similar to Baccarat. Perhaps only in sillage and Presence
Konga5000
Narciso Rodriguez For Her

Konga5000

I only wish every new fragrance came with a blurb "This fragrance will last 10 hours plus with 2 to 4 sprays" instead of porning us with shimmery close-up photos of leaves & fruits and the required photo of the serious French guy sniffing a price tag. P.S. Stupid name that reminds me of RoboCop and that boring bottle Dior is so proud of. Sorry to be so cranky - the garbage truck woke me up early !
ineverwas
Olympéa

ineverwas

I find it very similar to Hiram Green Slowdive and - to a lesser extent - to Slumberhouse Kiste.

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