Hermès’ H24 – A Possible Modern Classic?
Fragrance Reviews

by Eddie Bulliqi
03/12/21 21:40:18 ( 38 comments )

The newest masculine from Hermès has all the makings of a modern classic, just like its predecessor Terre d’HermèsH24 is easy-going but highly interesting at the same time; unlikely to ever offend anyone, but also with the capacity to give great joy to those who appreciate it; unique without the audacity to stick out like a sore thumb. 

H24 flacon and box

I would describe it as a green foggy chypre – green as in leafy, foggy as in musky, and chypre as in dry. The opening is incredibly engaging, painting silvered eucalyptus hues with smooth, suede-like sage that possesses an airy, voluminous transparency and a silky, curvaceous herbalcy, peppered but also floral. That floral facet is highlighted by a subtle, hard-to-put-your-finger-on narcissus (daffodil) note which shapes the texture and character of the scent more than its flavour, providing a richness and buttery plushness, a touch waxy and a touch fruity, that morphs the sage into the territory of fig or papaya (recalling something like Heeley’s Figuier but with far less fruit). 

H24 ad photo

To continue comparisons, I felt the shadow of Frédéric Malle’s French Lover but with the wood toned down to a whisper; it would not surprise me if Calyx, with its neon green accents backdropped by tropical humidity, was an inspiration here; as well as Tom Ford’s Vert des Bois for its chlorophyll-stained, sappy forest accord. But H24 has a signature in its own right; these references only hint at the collage of smells you’re getting from this deceptively simple botanical scent. Even though the musk starts clouding the picture a few hours in, shifting the balance from spritely garden aromas to comforting clouds of white, the opening has a pleasing naturality to it that even borders on a “healthy”-smelling accord (see our article “What Does Healthy Smell Like In 2020? for more). I read that Christine Nagel wanted to evoke the textural quality of the brand’s fashion line; to me, the palpable character she achieved is of a silk pocket square in which your fingers glide seamlessly over the fabric but also notice the fine grain and tight weave. 

H24 flacon

The most unusual aspect of the scent, present from a few minutes in to about the half-way mark, is the sclarene – an aroma-chemical that is supposed to be reminiscent of hot iron. Penhaligon’s Sartorial immediately came to my mind when discovering the metallic effect in H24, paralleling Sartorial’s workshop machinery vibe but with a colder, less cottony lining. 

With H24, there is a lot to discover in a hard-to-hate package, bolstered by some hard-to-forget moments. For my money, it will stand the test of time. 

Author

Eddie Bulliqi

Eddie Bulliqi Columnist

Eddie Bulliqi is a writer and speaker who analyses what people want from their senses, specialised in the interpretation of tastes and smells, with a background in musicology and history of art. He has worked with Coty, the Estée Lauder Companies, Esxence, the Institute for Art and Olfaction, and the World Perfumery Congress. For Fragrantica, he produces trend reports, interviews, raw material studies and reviews.

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News Comments

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seachase
Artisan

seachase

Speaking about Americans, I am convinced that the " I want to be different" population currently outnumbers the population that they call "boring, generic, and dull."
They so desperately crave attention, that striving to be "different" becomes their priority in life.
With their Kool-Aid colored, bizarre haircuts and their fragrances that smell like aluminum foil or decomposed bodies, their numbers have greatly multiplied.
Sadly, they are so mind-numbingly self-centered and massively insecure, that they haven't noticed that they in fact have become the "boring, generic and dull" majority. (especially in the perfume community)
So, my advice to them is this: You're not going to "be different" by having hot pink hair and smelling like a very fleeting, metallic green chemical. If you really want to be different, try wearing a pleasant fragrance and being kind to your fellow man. In America, that would be amazingly different.
Andy the Frenchy
Oh, ooOoh ...oh

Andy the Frenchy

Not a fan of Nagel - who hasn't blended any fragrance that impressed me, not even a single one - but I have to admit that she here managed to bypass her usual boring pattern, by offering a fragrance that results being really original in the current designer landscape, even if I already smelt that somewhere in the niche world (where? I'm not sure).
Very easy to wear, airy, green, very nice. Worth of interest, even if it will be a pass for me as it doesn't fit my personality. A thought a bit similar to Gucci Guilty Cologne (even if very different).
Jacobleo06
H24

Jacobleo06

Can green be a sent lol
Love this one nice metallic and clean smelling. Loved it!
Aramis64

Aramis64 07/06/21 04:47

I've just tried it and it's an absolutely beautiful fragrance, love it. Please do not compare this with something as bad as Dior's Sauvage because it has nothing to do with it. This is a Hermés 100%! Way to go Christine!
FragranceLee

FragranceLee 05/17/21 14:55

Man what happened to this forum? None of the comments are of the actual fragrance itself. Who cares about the bottle? If it's ugly it's ugly..if it smells amazing, it's worth it.
I'LL go ahead and find a sample and give my take on it on here as soon as it comes in, Sheesh
Jean B Grenouille
Fortnum & Mason Taif Oud

Jean B Grenouille 03/17/21 09:14

@andrewatic, spot on!

On another note I doubt that if one must use Hermes for ties then something as banal as H24 will suffice as a scent.
Ioshka
Angel Schlesser Homme

Ioshka 03/17/21 08:32

Let me repeat my review from the H24 page, since it's not visible on there for some reason, idk, censorship? Yikes. H24 is basically a rebottled Dior Eau Sauvage, which smells like bad breath, with Hermes DNA. Nothing to get excited about. It's a perfect scent for the modern noseblind generation with no heart, just an interesting top with a generic drydown. It was launched in order to appeal to the widest possible crowd and create a possibility for a million flankers at the same time.
andrewatic

andrewatic 03/17/21 02:48

@jeca
I agree! Ms. Nagel's recent offerings are rather disappointing and mediocre at best - one has to say it clearly, no offence to those who like it.

And, announcing H24 as "a new dimension in fragrance" or "beyond the lines" while the concept smells recycled to me, is hypocrisy in my opinion.

I would love to read your own review on this fragrance.
jovejove
Sage Spell

jovejove 03/16/21 18:19

@BirkinSmell

Aside from the torment he put Fergie through, the pedophelia and human trafficking, yeah, totally well respected...5% of the time he’s respected 100% of the time.
andrewatic

andrewatic 03/16/21 17:01

@BirkinSmell
I've been around a block for a while so to speak, and I have been a part of Hermes customer base that you are talking about, for decades. And perhaps that's why I can assure you about one thing: NOBODY is immune to mediocrity and gradual decline in quality, not even Hermes.

I happen to be in fashion business myself, for nearly 40 years now and have seen that "decline story" so often throughout my career. Quality does not come automatically with the name on the label. It has to be fought for in order to keep it in place. It does not come on its own, unfortunately. The only thing it does on its own is disappear very quickly if you lose the sight of it for just a moment. It's brutal but that's the way it works. No exceptions.

Right now, this so called "legend" is nothing else than a recycled idea in my opinion, taken from good old Azzaro pour Homme slightly modernized. Nothing great, groundbreaking or innovative about it. We've seen better than that.
Tlund
Veni

Tlund 03/16/21 16:04

I smelled it today with high hopes; the comment about neon green accents with background of tropical humidity like Calyx made me very excited. It started out really nice with a classy citrus burst made very fresh with aromatic Eucalyptus. I thought it was a great scent for summer.. but after about 30 minutes, that all goes away and you are left with the same boring synthetic dry down found in Bleu de Chanel and Dior Sauvage. Ugh, everyone is making cheap scents with different top notes. The dry down in every scent available in department stores is the same and after an hour you can’t tell any of them apart. I will stick with small-batch niche fragrances from now on.
mshilov
Open Sky

mshilov 03/16/21 14:43

OMG. @BirkinSmell, this scent is supposed to seduce crowds all over the world, and most of that people don't care at all about the "royal family" in any way, they just want something smelling good and looking nice. Unfortunately the scent itself is not a strong point of H24. Even if I can imagine that many men will receive it as a gift for their birthday (once) or will choose it as a safe office scent for themselves, it doesn't give enough support to H24 to stand the test of time. And to become a legend... Oh, it's not gonna happen.
BirkinSmell

BirkinSmell 03/16/21 12:13

Did I say it will be good? I said it will be a legend and well regarded in certain social circles. Is Prince Andrew not well regarded in social circles? I imagine he is adored in his own social circles
jovejove
Sage Spell

jovejove 03/16/21 10:36

Let me remind you that Prince Andrew is a part of the British Royal Family... doesn’t mean if it’s a ‘part of royalty’ or a ‘legend’, it’ll be good. Title means nothing anymore as to what’s inside.

@BirkinSmell
jovejove
Sage Spell

jovejove 03/15/21 19:22

Feels like a deconstructed scent of something else. Makes me think of a watered down version of Chanel Platinum Egoïste, Acqua Di Gio Essenza or Margiela Untitled. Green, fresh, simple. Haven’t found it to last long. Will give it another go in warmer weather, but I’m not convinced, other that it’s a great generic addition for Hermès to appeal to a wider crowd of people that are put off from the unique hooks in their other compositions.
Harley_84
Original Vetiver

Harley_84 03/15/21 17:41

The hype-machine is going strong with this creation. Greenish sage opening, strange Metallic petrichor-like heart. A short lived and bland scent. I really don’t understand the accolades.

Two lines of reasoning as to why some find this so “good”:

1) it’s not a “Bleu” fragrance, so it’s different, so in their mind it must be good, well to them I say enjoy it! If you like it you like it. I don’t, it’s a watery green mess, with a metallic note.

2) it’s from a “prestige” brand so it is affordable luxury. Ok, can’t argue that, won’t argue that, the box says Hermes, lovely. However it doesn’t mean that what’s inside is good.
Flying Dutchman
Aroon Sawat

Flying Dutchman 03/14/21 11:39

I hated Toyboy from the first sniff, the pepper made me sneeze. In addition the childish bottle and the faux gay advertising campaign did not appeal to meat all.
Just to say that fragrance is a highly individual hobby, you can talk about it, but we all have our different opinions.

I will first try H24 before I judge, for now I am interested.
alex23481
Beau De Jour Eau de Parfum

alex23481 03/14/21 05:13

You wanna talk about a trully different, daring new designer fragrance, in any way possible, from the smell to the bottle, AND which people like and are actually intrigued by? Try talking about Moschino Toy Boy, not H24
Claire Dessert
Eau D'Hermes

Claire Dessert 03/14/21 04:29

I can't wait to try this one! Hermès ? Okay, I'm listening! Green, foggy, leafy? Yes please! Not to everybody's liking? Even better!

Like Kopane down here I like the bottle. Slick, angular and minimal, and being Hermès I'm sure it will be nice and chunky and heavy.

I hope the shops will open soon......
KopaneDePooj
Guerlain Homme Eau de Parfum (2016)

KopaneDePooj 03/14/21 03:25

A great fragrance, I had a 2ml decant and I will buy a full bottle. Totally agree with this review. Keep the staff reviews coming! I like reading more about this because is something new and different. The performance is perfect as it is, don't need any stronger / longer lasting flanker. I wear it for me primarily. I like the fact that is just a bit polarizing and not a crowd pleaser and "It doesn’t appeal to the general audience" as someone said below. That's a good thing :) Excellent bottle! fits the presentation with urban shapes angles and reflections. Clean and simple. People fret too much about bottles anyway, also on yt. Come on, you don't wear the bottle. Haters will hate...
jeca
Rose Alexandrie

jeca 03/14/21 01:14

@ regno_dellOlfatto, Hermes paid nothing :-) at Fragrantica, we try timely write reviews about everything new, but if one of us writes about something it doesn’t mean that the subject is sealed. Fragrantica’s authors work together but independently. The new launch by Hermes is a big deal, just like Tom Ford, Dior, or Serge Lutens, so it is understandable that many of us have something to say about it.

I had high hopes for the perfume, but it disappointed me, I had to scrape it off. Maybe I’ll write another review :-) but a negative one since Christine Nagel has stopped creating good scents, for me.
Tig999

Tig999 03/13/21 15:11

I think people here are being very cynical. It’s a good fragrance and pretty different for a mainstream designer fragrance. I am going to wait for a stronger flanker though, Hermes usually perfects them with EDP flankers or the like. eg. Td’H or Vert de Orange.

But also, Hermes usually has really good bottle designs. They need to get rid of whoever designed this whole bottle concept as well the name and font. Just really bland looking.
alex23481
Beau De Jour Eau de Parfum

alex23481 03/13/21 14:22

I understand it needs more reviews to hype it up, because nobody actually likes it. If they like something about it, it’s that it’s not blue. But nobody actually cares about it. Just ask any salesman from Sephora. It doesn’t appeal to the general audience. All that you can think when smelling it is ‘meh’. This instant classic will be forgotten in 6 months from now on unless they release a flanker that is 10x better
DaneGR

DaneGR 03/13/21 13:41

Mix the jardin series together then dilute = H24. Nice. Nothing new.
Chanel de Lanvin
Palais Jamais

Chanel de Lanvin 03/13/21 09:13

Perfume is no longer a luxury, anyone can perfume themselves with anything and everything, what saves the interest is no longer talking about materials or arts but about the brand.
If H24 would have been created by Lutens, there would be a tidal wave because everyone knows his creations, suddenly it would have been set on fire but here we are talking about Hermes .... but that changes everything .... wear Hermes c is a sign of luxury, respect.
Well no, you have to know how to recognize it, that first of all you don't wear perfume for others but for yourself.
What makes me smile is her outfit that fills the room, come on, it's just an eau de toilette, when its EDP version comes out, are you going to cry for help?
When you have such a delicate nose, I can understand that talking about Francesca Bianchi is illusory, but it's ... Hermes, high class.
kigyo
H24

kigyo 03/13/21 07:03

I sprayed a test strip exactly a week ago today. Still going strong on my desk. The smell is out of this World, very unique, drydown is dreamy beautiful. For me the best release in ages. An instant classic.
mshilov
Open Sky

mshilov 03/13/21 07:02

Reading more and more new articles about H24, I ask myself only one question: would at least one of them appear on Fragrantica if it wasn't Hermes? I'm pretty sure the scent would go unnoticed as there is absolutely nothing in it that deserves to be noticed. Hot iron note... are you serious? Is it a special kind of pleasure, smelling like an ironing room? And then H24 fades quickly without leaving a trace... To speak of this scent as a new classic is at least premature. Nothing fancy, even looking with a magnifying glass. But I'm glad for those who find this scent amazing - if these H24 fans are sincere with themselves.
Djedi

Djedi 03/13/21 06:36

It's a good release by Hermes, nothing groundbreaking, but a welcome departure from all those ambroxan and amberwood dominant garbage releases of the past few years. It's more of a green nu-barbershop scent with a nice, pleasant, soft metallic drydown. Very easy to wear and perfect to wear either dressed up or down. It's inevitable they will relase an EDP or Parfum version of this one.
CTH
Encre Noire A L'Extreme

CTH 03/13/21 04:17

it has an amazing opening which sadly does not last long, dry down is rather green and starchy the late dry down is interesting and unique but rather faint. I guess they achieved some artistic expression here trying to be unique but its not a classy fragrance like its predecessor. Perhaps the flankers may save it...
Aramis64

Aramis64 03/13/21 02:45

Medusa82....to what 1001 perfumes drydowns are you referring? So we might have an idea...
Medusa82

Medusa82 03/13/21 01:07

Very disappointed with this one. It opens very unusual and fresh without citrus but the dry down is just like 1001 other perfumes. Trying to shift the bottle in case anyone is interested
Aramis64

Aramis64 03/13/21 00:49

Thanks for the article Eddie, I have to try this one. So far Hermés never has been disappointing, I love their fragrances and own quite a lot of them. And I like the clean and simple bottle.
Leonyarra
Spicebomb Night Vision Eau de Parfum

Leonyarra 03/12/21 23:50

I agree with much of the article but I fear the drydown will be this fragrance’s undoing. It has very little to offer after a couple of hours, where Terre d’Hermes was just beginning its magical scent cloud at that mark. I hope I’m wrong and I come to love it because after all, Hermes mens pillars are titans of the olfactive world
ApiApi
Pi Air

ApiApi 03/12/21 23:13

The bottle is ugly, but I really want to try this one, Hermes is my new love after the fails of D&G since its not made in Italy (the real D&G from Italy instead of the fake D&G these days).
Rob80
Encre Noire Sport

Rob80 03/12/21 22:03

How dare you say the word "fig"? Now the snobs will hunt you down 🤣

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