moonfish67 07/07/21 03:30
New From Celine: Haute Parfumerie Collection
About two years ago, it was announced that Hedi Slimane would be the new creative director of the French Haute Couture fashion house Céline, following in the foot steps of British fashion designer Phoebe Philo who directed the house's creations from 2008 until 2018.
Hedi Slimane portrait LVMH twitter post January 21, 2018.
Hedi Slimane is a French fashion designer and photographer who began his career in the 1990s as an assistant in fashion marketing at Yves Saint Laurent, where he would later become artistic director. In 2000, he took up the position of creative director for Dior Homme, during which he popularized the skinny silhouette in menswear, famously dressing pop star David Bowie, among others. Slimane left Dior in 2007 to focus on photographic projects but returned to Yves Saint Laurent in 2012 as creative director. Taking the helm at Celine was his next adventure, presenting his debut fashion collection for the house in the Fall of 2018.
With the hashtag #CelineByHediSlimane, the designer boldly showed the world he meant business, starting with a string of trucks ostentatiously rolling through New York during Fashion Week of 2018 showing off the new logo of the brand (Slimane omitted the accent on the first E), and continuing with recently opening a new Celine store, just off the Rue Saint-Honoré, bringing together Slimane’s own furniture design with the work of five international artists.
"Celine Vipiana was not even 30 years old when she labeled her eponymous brand with her given name. The year was 1945, and the second world war had just drawn to a close. The business began as a made to measure shoe service for children. Before long her boutiques had spread across Paris. Soon she was persuaded by prestigious clients to create haute couture shoes for their children, and encouraged by this success extended the service to the women themselves. In the 1960s, she created the first line of leather goods and accessories, before a natural progression to design the sports collection in 1968. It is at this time that Celine came to stand for the idea of Parisian chic, with some of our fair and the finest quality materials as pillars of the house. Today that same spirit is reinforced by artistic director Hedi Slimani through the ateliers at 16 Rue Vivienne. Combined with ready-to-wear and accessories his haute couture designs showcase the meticulous possibilities of French craft within the Celine wardrobe."
Last month, October 2019, the house proudly presented the Celine Haute Parfumerie Collection, a range of nine unisex scents created by Hedi Slimane. "The Celine Haute Parfumerie Collection draws its know-how from French high perfumery, in keeping with the tradition of the “couturier parfumeur," explained the house.
"The starting point and the root of the collection's creation is Hedi Slimane's olfactory journal, where each perfume relies on the memory of emotions, on the remembrance of something specific or the narrative of the couturier. Hence, there is a personal and sentimental character at the heart of the project and Hedi Slimane's relationship with his perfumers. De facto, it takes on a personal and universal dimension where the reassurance, the memory, and the emotion of a perfume resonate within everyone."
"All the perfumes are linked together by one singular olfactory imprint. A powdery note dominates the collection, shading the singular features of each composition. Like a diaphanous veil placed over the skin, this powdery filter provides each perfume with an enveloping patina and the French elegance of a couture trail." Entering the new Celine line to our database, it became clear the note of white orris butter was an often recurring ingredient in the described compositions, likely responsible for the powdery patina connecting the editions of the line.
Parade - "A musky, powdery cologne in keeping with the very codified ritual of male sartorial appearance. An attribute of the great dandies from 19th century literature right up to the musicians on the pop and rock scene since the 60s. A return to the idea of transmission and of a very French kind of perfumery. A parade under the sunlight of neroli and the radiance of bergamot, a carefree and sophisticated mix imparted by musk and oak moss, a feminine facet revealed in an addictive and powdery residual trail."
Notes: BERGAMOT, NEROLI, VETIVER, MUSK, OAK MOSS
Saint Germaine des Prés - "The eternal youth of the left bank and their allure, looking like heroes from a novel and the movies, young people Hedi Slimane never tires of observing, sitting in a cafe at Saint-Germain-Des-Prés, his favorite part of Paris since he was 20 years old. Saint-Germain is recaptured in a perfume. The insolence of petitgrain, the delicacy of orange blossom faceted by heliotrope and vanilla, as sweet as marshmallow or a puff of icing sugar, underlined with the elegance and nobility of orris."
Notes: NEROLI, PETIT GRAIN, WHITE ORRIS BUTTER, HELIOTROPE, VANILLA
Cologne Française - "A trompe l’œil cologne, deceptively understated, aristocratic and singular. A composition playing on dissonant accords. The top note redolent with the addictive mellowness of neroli and the sensuous bite of fig tree, then the elegance of a veil of powdery orris and the tender patina of tree moss."
Notes: NEROLI, FIG TREE, WHITE ORRIS BUTTER, TREE MOSS, MUSK
Dans Paris - "The promise of Paris when you are just 20 years old and feeling that the city belongs to you. A top note exuding the suave vivaciousness of bergamot and coriander seed. A boat trip along the Seine in radiant sunlight. Like a tracking shot from a movie on Parisian facades, leaving you floating on air, enveloped in an addictive accord of vanilla and powdery laurel blossom."
Notes: BERGAMOT, CORIANDER SEED, LAUREL BLOSSOM ACCORD, MUSK, VANILLA
La Peau Nue - "Reminiscences of those 70’s icons, those Parisian heroines with their movie-style elegance. A slender and impeccable allure, the eyes rimmed in black and the skin blushed with the velvety-smooth accents of orris and rose. Like an image fading over time then invading the memory, the floral intensity lightens under the softness of powdery notes and the depth of vetiver."
Notes: BERGAMOT, ROSE ABSOLUTE, WHITE ORRIS BUTTER, RICE POWDER, VETIVER
Eau de Californie - "An acoustic and solar perfume in tribute to California where Hedi Slimane lived for more than ten years. The memory of palo santo, that magical essence of wood, with fresh, smoky and creamy facets. In the background, the powdery notes of orris and tree moss give this Californian dream the signature of a Parisian couture house."
Notes: BERGAMOT, WHITE ORRIS BUTTER, PALO SANTO ACCORD, TREE MOSS, PATCHOULI
Reptile - "A beguiling and musical perfume for center-stage. The olfactory twin of the stage outfits and rock star portraits that Hedi Slimane made throughout his life as a couturier. Like a kaleidoscope of black around tree moss, featuring facets electrified by other notes… a top note with the elegance of cedar, then the toxic and mysterious charm of leather and pepper, trailing into an addictive musky and powdery patina."
Notes: CEDAR, PEPPER, TREE MOSS, LEATHER ACCORD, MUSK
Black Tie - "A couturier’s perfume, the exact olfactory interpretation of his style in relation to fashion: his obsession with black and a tailored silhouette. An androgynous composition, around vanilla as dense and as crisp as grain de poudre or lacquered satin. Fashioned like a dinner jacket, cedar and tree moss structure its allure, while the powdery caress of orris troubles body and mind."
Notes: WHITE ORRIS BUTTER, CEDAR, TREE MOSS, VANILLA, MUSK
Nightclubbing - "A perfume for night birds fed by the memory of Parisian nights during the palace and bains douches era. A galbanum top note immerses us in an electric atmosphere with accents of nicotine, on a musky and addictive patina, somewhere between the scent of crimson velvet seats and the sensuality of the nape of a neck fragrant with vanilla."
Notes: GALBANUM, WHITE ORRIS BUTTER, PATCHOULI, TREE MOSS, VANILLA, MUSK
Located at 390 Rue Saint Honoré in Paris, the first Celine Haute Parfumerie boutique, designed by Hedi Slimane, hosts all of the brand's perfume creations. This is where the new collection can be tried out and purchased, the latter also possible on line through the brand's website. All editions are offered in 200 ml Eau de Parfum (US $320) and 100 ml Eau de Parfum (US $220).
Edit: The new line can also be explored at Celine's New York City flagship store on 650 Madison Avenue.
Bella van der Weerd Editor, Writer & Translator
Bella van der Weerd studied Communications at the University of Groningen, the Netherlands, and joined the Fragrantica team in May 2012 to start up the Dutch sister site of Fragrantica.com. She assists in designing, editing and translating articles, and contributes as a writer.
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