RawMia 07/05/21 16:39
This is what niche perfumery is all about, another homerun for Julien Rasquinet.
The En Aparté collection is named after the theatrical remark "to the side," when the actor speaks out loud, but the other characters do not hear him. He voices his thoughts and intentions, addressing only the audience. It looks something like this:
Gerald Ghislain: Histoires de Parfums is a niche perfume house that perpetuates the French perfumery tradition, with its characteristic luxury, nobility and creativity. We offer fragrant novels, scores and poems — you will meet extraordinary characters and exquisite ingredients.
Gerald Ghislain (aside): But we are happy to combine East and West in our fragrances. As you know, the perfumery market in the Gulf countries is on the rise, so Histoires de Parfums launched the En Aparté collection aimed at the tastes of the inhabitants of this region.
The collection was created by Luca Maffei, Fanny Bal, and Julien Rasquinet. Prolixe was signed by Julien Rasquinet (The Moon Frederic Malle, Bois d'Ascese Naomi Goodsir, Russian Tea Masque Milano), who now works in the Dubai branch of IFF. Prolixe Histoires de Parfums is another oriental perfume about the love story of rose and oud, told in cozy silence in a low voice.
I would say that the narrator of this story is not a sweet-voiced Scheherazade, but an elderly man, and here's why: In this fragrance, warm and homely, the rose plays a secondary role, the role of a sweet flower heroine, drawing attention to the narrative at the beginning of the story. Then attention turns to the twists and turns of history: the spicy, peppery nuances of nutmeg; the sweet spice of cinnamon; and hot, fiery cloves. But aquilaria wood gets much more attention simply because it is in focus of the perfume for a longer time. More precisely, thin white streams of oud wood and incense smoke, with a sweetish and slightly spicy smell, smelling of great bakhur smoke. Julien is especially good in creating perfect smoky perfumes, even though he doesn't like to be called a "smoke" perfumer.
In the base, the scent becomes a whisper; the most important decisive words of the fairy tale pour into the ears with the warm breath. The scent descends to a warm animalic accord, which combines the warmth of spices, creamy sandalwood, and smoky oud. Sometimes in the base you can smell the hairy underbelly of costus, a subtle leather shade, before the sweet-voiced duet of honey and benzoin remains from the love story of oud and rose.
Prolixe is suitable as an introductory scent for those who are afraid of the wildest and dirtiest facets of the oud oil smell. Here, it is been civilised; it smells rather like the smoke of bakhur — which is used to fumigate houses and clothes in Eastern tradition — than oud oil applied on the body. It does not repulse, but intrigues. After wearing it from my sample, I want to know what fragrances were included into the collection.
Top notes: Ginger, Cardamom, Cinnamon;
Middle notes: Frankincense, Rose, Chamomile;
Base notes: Patchouli, Sandalwood, Tobacco, and Oud.
Sergey Borisov studied Physics at Krasnoyarsk University. He's been known in the Internet perfume world under the nickname moon_fish for more than 15 years. His texts about perfumes have been published in Russian print and online publications such as GQ, Vogue, Cosmopolitan, The Rake, Glamour, and other magazines. He loves oud oils, as well as vintage perfumes, and notes of leather, vetiver, neroli, and orris. In 2013, Sergey joined the Fragrantica team.
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