Zaharoff Signature Rosé Review
George Zaharoff has been very busy lately with new launches of limited perfumes in the capsule collection but also releasing flankers in the main line, such as this one, Zaharoff Signature Rosé. This is presented as a flanker of Zaharoff Signature but has a completely different character, still following the classic style, and again with Claude Dir as the perfumer.
As the brand explains, Zaharoff Signature Rosé was built over the base of the original scent, but as far as I smell it, it's a totally different perfume. It's one of those fragrances that, like it or not, you just can't point out any flaw in it. Or at least this is my opinion. And that is what I thought when I first smelled it months ago when I got a sample preview of it. Today, as I am experiencing it again, I still feel the same.
There is something magical that happens when you juxtapose rose with vanilla and oud. The action seems to create this perfect accord that you can play with, and in this case, the perfumer decided to add touches of spicy notes that may come from the roses themselves, but they also smell a lot like geranium. It's that spicy character of geranium that gives dynamic texture to it. At this stage, it makes me think of Frederic Malle's Portrait of a Lady. Then, there are the sugar notes in the base, something I am not a fan of, but here they are handled with care, and they are rather delicate enough for me to enjoy them. This is the part that brings out the mechanics of Baccarat Rouge, but instead of making the fragrance annoying, like the aforementioned work, in Zaharoff Signature Rosé, the sugar inserted is just enough to complete the fragrance without bringing it to sugar rush status. Connecting to the spicy character, we have the amazing properties of myrrh and incense, bringing the scent back to some formality, a touch of the austere and serious. I like it a lot; there is a lot of balance, texture, contrast, and dynamism, everything working very well. In fact, now that I am smelling it in the drydown, the smoky and cold aspects of the resins are opening up beautifully, enveloped by just the right amount of sweetness to make it comfortable.
Top Notes: Turkish Rose, Rose Otto
Middle Notes: Amber, Jasmine, Red Peony, Bulgarian Rose
Base Notes: Sandalwood, Vanilla Bean, Sugar Cane, Oud, Myrrh, Frankincense
Miguel Matos Editor, Writer, Translator
Miguel has been a Fragrantica editor and columnist since 2013, and his work has been recognized by the Fragrance Foundation and the Perfumed Plume Awards several times, as well as by the Art and Olfaction Awards in 2019. He has a list of olfactory art exhibitions, including Making the Body Think, in Los Angeles, at the Institute for Art and Olfaction. He wrote the book "The Perfumed Zodiac" (in Portuguese) and launched his own line of fragrances, Miguel Matos Olfactory Art. His perfumer portfolio includes fragrances made for Bruno Acampora, Calaj, Der Duft, Horai Studio, Nishane and Sarah Baker.
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